Issue #8 August: Scandinavia Really Is the Happiest Place on Earth š
Highlights from my trip to Copenhagen and Stockholm and how it made me realize Iām doing life wrong.
For Augustās issue, I thought I'd share my experiences from my recent week-long trip to Copenhagen and Stockholm. As I started posting my trip on social, so many friends reached out to say either that these were their favorite cities or that these were their top wish list destinations. And I can totally see why. It literally looks like the photo above everywhere! People are healthy and relaxed, children run free without a care in the world, the streets and buildings are immaculate, public transportation runs smoothly, fika is a way of lifeāhow could anyone not be happy living in such a utopia? š Weāll get back to regularly scheduled SF programming next month, but for now, letās pretend capitalism doesnāt run our lives. Hope this inspires your next vacation! (Note: this is a long one so you may have to click-through to read the whole issue.)
Copenhagen, Denmark
Eat š
This was right outside the train station and the first thing we ate when we landed. There were many, many hot dog š options so we opted for the two with the tastiest looking photos. Later that evening, we saw the guy (presumably, John), casually walking his hot dog truck down the street while other cars drove around him (thatās what I meanāpeople are so relaxed).
Our first dinner and a lovely introduction to Nordic cuisine. The menu featured local ingredients like sorrel, currants of every color, turbot, and lobster. My favorite was the sesame roll cake. The nice Danish couple next to us said this was a play on roll cakes kids would get from the convenience store as a snack.
A local favorite for simple, tasty burgers š. There are many locations throughout the city. We went to a fancier burger place the next night, but thought this was better.
From a former Noma pastry chef, this was the most recommended bakery š„ by the Internet. The line formed before opening, but it moved fast. While in line, I saw two toddlers in a wagon sharing a pastry while their dad went back inside the bakery. Yes, itās true, people in Copenhagen do leave their children outside by themselves. We got the cardamom bun, a vanilla custard bun, the seasonal danish, and a seeded roll. The cardamom bun was so cardamom-y, I imagined they used fresh pods. The buttery vanilla custard bun was also a standout.
This spot was recommended by the Danish couple who sat next to us at Jakak. It was packed with tons of food and drink vendors as people just hung out by the water enjoying the beautiful weather. We already had dinner, but had to try a smĆørrebrĆød and of course, finish the evening with some gelato š¦.
Shop šļø
Probably the most stylish bookstore Iāve ever seen, stocked with the kind of beautiful art books you see on celebrity coffee tables during their Architectural Digest house tours.
Fun clothing boutique and art gallery. They even had the MSCHF bag on display.
Boutique carrying designs by Danish designer, Henrik Vibskov, and other avant-garde brands like Maison Margiela, Comme des GarƧons, and Issey Miyake. I bought a CDG x K-Way anorak, which totally came in handy when it rained suddenly in Stockholm. They also have a shop in NYC.
The cutest interior design shop. I wanted to move in or at least buy everything, but alas had to settle for a pair of emerald green pjs.
Ceramics and glass studio, selling the happiest creations. Again, I wanted to buy everything, but had to limit the number of fragile items in my luggage. I bought a mini glass vase as a gift (similar) and a donut blob for myself (similar).
See š¼ļø
Nyhavn, Kongens Nytorv, StrĆøget
Nyhavn is the iconic photo-op spot. The colorful buildings along the canal house restaurants and cafes where people hang out and chill. There are also tons of boat tours, which we didnāt do, but saw plenty of people lining up. A quick walk from Nyhavn is Kongens Nytorv, the cityās central square. From there, keep walking to StrĆøget where all the shops mentioned above and many more await.
One of the worldās oldest amusement parks, this was fun to visit especially in the evening. We tried to time our ferris wheel ride š” with the sunset, but we were still too early at 9:30pm. Even for those who donāt like rides, itās worth the visit to check out the gardens and architecture.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Since our time in Copenhagen was limited, we debated whether it was worth the trek out to Louisiana and weāre so glad we did it. The museum is located on the coast so it provides a very unique indoor-outdoor experience for visitors. Highlights include Kusamaās Gleaming Lights of the Souls and Louise Bourgeoisās Spider Couple š·ļø. The outdoor sculpture park is also stunning with plenty of space to sit and enjoy the views. Itās about an hour train ride from Copenhagen and then a 15-minute walk to the museum.
Stay šļø
Beautiful hotel with a fun lobby bar and a pool. It was the former post office so itās centrally located across the street from the main train station and next door to Tivoli Gardens. Our room was decently-sized with a coffee maker and a kettle. The breakfast buffet was incredible.
Stockholm, Sweden
Eat š
Casual spot for tasty falafels wrapped in freshly-baked fluffy pitas š„. It was that point of the trip where I needed some spice.
Cozy restaurant with a changing menu based on a theme. The theme was āE4ā when we went so they featured dishes inspired by various regions on the European Road 4. It was my first time eating reindeer!
Food truck with a large variety of sausages served stuffed into a baguette with sauerkraut and condiments. You can get a double (4 sausages) if youāre really hungry, but the single (2 sausages) was plenty.
We wanted to do a fancy meal on the trip, but had no idea the level of fancy we were getting into. It honestly felt like we were in The Menu š. The restaurant is hidden in a park on a small marina. I gasped aloud when I walked in. They served canapes on the patio, dinner in the dining room, and dessert in the lounge. Three-and-a-half hours of beautiful dishes later, they were still bringing us freshly baked madeleines. I was worried we were never going to leave. Whelp, there are worse ways to go out.
For our last night in Stockholm, we went to a highly-recommended small plates restaurant. The food and atmosphere felt like it could have easily been in SF. Everything was delicious. We had their signature salt-brined cucumber with sour cream and honey š„, scallops served on the shell, chanterelles and cabbage, tomato tart š , and sorrel sorbet.
Shop šļø
After years of shopping at Acne, we were excited to check out the Archive store which stocks past seasons' items at a discount. We didnāt find anything that day, but the guy working there was super friendly and suggested we go to the main Acne store where even full-retail pieces are lower than US prices.
Iāve been casually eyeing Toteme designs for a while so when I saw prices are indeed much lower than the US, I bought their signature striped turtleneck sweater and a pair of silk trousers that feel like pjs.
Another stylish Swedish brand making cool and sustainable classics. I was sold a gray coatigan by a lovely saleswoman who has it in two colors and swears she lives in it. I think I will too come this fall.
I had only experienced Byredo products at hotels and didnāt know theyāre a Swedish brand. I picked up a bottle of Bal dāAfrique and have been wearing it everyday since.
Artisan confectionery making the best caramels. I grabbed a few boxes as gifts. My only regret of the entire trip is not trying their ice cream š.
See š¼ļø
Cute little shopping and cafe district. PƤrlans Konfektyr mentioned above is in this neighborhood.
Stockholmās Old Town and original city center with historical buildings, museums, shops, and restaurants.
Amazing photography museum located next to the water. We saw the Shephard Fairey exhibit, which was cool to experience after seeing his iconic Obama āHopeā poster everywhere. Itās also open late in the summer so people can grab drinks at the bar and enjoy the sunset.
We almost skipped this one because we were headed to Artipelag that day, but really wanted to see the Maurizio Cattelan exhibit and it did not disappoint. Some may know Cattelan as the guy who taped a banana š to the wall at Art Basel, but his other work is truly impressive like the mini replica of the Sistine Chapel.
Located in the Stockholm Archipelago, Artipelag is an art museum and culture center built to fit in with the surrounding natural landscape. We took a bus there and a tour boat back. We saw the I Follow the Sun exhibit, which was entirely dedicated to art about sunflowers. Outside was a sculpture park, featuring the very cool Solar Egg.
Stay šļø
Super charming hotel in a former tailor shop. Itās an old building (no elevators), but conveniently located right by the metro stop. The rooms are teeny tiny (no privacy), but expertly designed. The complimentary breakfast buffet on its own is worth the stay.
Crumbs (other notes) š
- āļø I flew SAS airlines from SFO to Copenhagen because itās the only direct flight out of SFO. Itās pricier than other airlines with layovers, but the time saved is worth it to me. It was an overall smooth journey and we even arrived earlier than scheduled. Food was meh, but I knew I was getting a hot dog as soon as we landed.
- š We took the SJ Train train from Copenhagen to Stockholm. The journey is about five hours which is longer than a one-hour flight, but the route is very scenic and trains in general are so fun!
- āļø The weather was absolutely perfect (~70F / 21C) except for the random day it rained in Stockholm. It was typically light out from 5am to 10pm.
- š³ Both cities took credit cards everywhere so no cash needed.
- š Both cities are very walkable and the metro is easy to navigate. Note thereās no Uber in Copenhagen, but we were fine without.
- š° Some stores offered duty free shopping. They gave me paperwork to fill out and get processed at the airport. Itās not as seamless as shopping in other parts of Europe or Asia so allow extra time for this if you do shop.
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